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| author | Jakob Stendahl <14180120+JakobST1n@users.noreply.github.com> | 2018-11-03 14:34:50 +0100 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | GitHub <noreply@github.com> | 2018-11-03 14:34:50 +0100 |
| commit | b39f189ce19fc86c35433ff5202b4f446f98a67d (patch) | |
| tree | 1c7c1df81ba2d10a10e0df13e21016a4b007ec31 | |
| parent | d9bf1ee6bc6036c2485c6b3b1aa4f28311734a7d (diff) | |
| download | Stickman-Costume-b39f189ce19fc86c35433ff5202b4f446f98a67d.tar.gz Stickman-Costume-b39f189ce19fc86c35433ff5202b4f446f98a67d.zip | |
:memo: Add todo-list, tweak usage-list
| -rw-r--r-- | README.md | 11 |
1 files changed, 7 insertions, 4 deletions
@@ -2,10 +2,10 @@ This was made for a halloween-costume. The code runs on an attiny85, mainly to be able to dim the lights down. # Usage -- Upload the code to the attiny -- Solder together the board -- Make the costume -- Have fun! +1) Make the costume +2) Solder together the board +3) Upload the code to the atiny +4) Have fun! ## Operation - Hold button `SW2` to change brightness/ pwm frequency. - Click button `SW1` to go through the modes. @@ -28,3 +28,6 @@ I did not use a full-size through-hole voltage-regulator, but a AMS1117-3.3 on t Since i didn't have a 8-pin din IC socket i used a 14-pin one, but that does not make a difference either. The red lines on the far right, is just an explanation of where i soldered my In-Out wires, They are not actually wires, but i soldered wires in where they start. This is the "same" thing as `J1` and `J2` on the scematic. + +# Todo +- I have a problem where it looks like it returns to mode `0`. I Haven't really figured out if this is due to bad code or bad soldering (or both). But there are a lot of improvements that could be done to the code, reagrding checking button presses. |